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Nude Orleans
From Bellocq to
Bourbon Street
by Phil Oppenheim
The trophy wife of a
tightfisted politician complained once too often that his
squeezing higher taxes out of the local residents kept those
folks from enjoying the aesthetic pleasures of the arts. He
challenged his wife to put up or shut up, and to put her belief
in the transformative power of art to a weirdly exhibitionist
test. ãMake like the Greek and Roman artworks you admire so
highly, and trot your naked behind in front of the art-deprived
masses you claim to champion,ä he bargained; if sheâd comply,
heâd put the local CPAs out of business and abolish taxes. One
sunny day in the middle of the eleventh century, Lady Godiva
dropped trou, hopped on a horse and paraded into history.
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Nique Le
Transome, Happy Lady Godivaâs Day, 2002, oil and alkyd on
linen, 24 by 36 inches (photo by Mike Smith courtesy
Contemporary Arts Center, New Orleans). |
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Nearly a thousand years later,
the city of New Orleans proclaimed a Lady Godiva Day, adding to
its already heavy schedule of holidays, and giving partygoers
yet another reason to disrobe and dance around the streets. Or
so New Orleans artist Nique Le Transome would have us believe:
in one of his paintings featured in the 2003 Louisiana Biennial,
a naked reveler astride a racehorse smilingly eludes a mounted
policeman under a blimp-drawn banner that flutters ãHappy Lady
Godivaâs Day! Be Good!ä Transome seems justified in naming Lady
Godiva the patron saint of New Orleans, as she stands for the
arts and for public nudity. Few places, mythological or real,
are more associated with naked flesh than New Orleans: from
ãGirls Gone Wildä videos for sale on late-night television to
popular imagery of Bourbon Street strippers shimmying against
shiny poles in dark dives, the cityâs unofficial iconic mascot
shifted long ago from the top-hatted inebriate holding up a
lamppost to the toothsome sorority girl with her brassiere held
defiantly aloft. New Orleans came by its fleshy associations for
good reason, and the repercussions of its naked reputation have
reverberated for generations.
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Ernest J.
Bellocq, Bellocq Prostitute, Storyville (courtesy John
Stinson Fine Arts). |
New Orleansâ historical legacy
of licentiousness extends at least as far back as the Louisiana
Purchase. The city struggled to control prostitution throughout
the nineteenth century, climaxing its efforts with the creation
of Storyville, the red-light district designed to corral vice
into a degenerate neighborhood a beadâs throw from the French
Quarter. Storyvilleâs unofficial documentarian was the famed
photographer÷and dwarf, hydrocephalic, kook, pervert or
visionary visual poet, depending on whom one asked÷Ernest J.
Bellocq, subject of a renowned 1970 Museum of Modern Art show
after his long-forgotten negatives were discovered. Bellocqâs
astonishing photographs of Storyvilleâs whores have become a
touchstone of modern art for several reasons beside their
beauty. Their matter-of-fact nudity distinguishes them from our
expectations of polite American-Victorian subject matter, while
postmoderns see their conflation of high with low and their
introduction of questions of voyeurism, sexual politics and race
as proof that Bellocq is one of them. Bellocqâs Storyville
portraits have become a cultural Rorschach test, allowing
viewers to read their stories into the mute images; in turn, his
photographs helped Storyville morph into an iconic mock Eden, a
more innocent time and place in which nudity was ãbeautifulä and
not pornographic, and whorehouses were quaint parlors rather
than dens of urban squalor, violence and disease.
Bourbon Street burlesque grew
from the Storyville tradition (that is, after the district was
closed down in 1917 and after the WWII-era GIs started
tomcatting around the port town for a little R&R). And within
the last decade, post-ironic hipsters, ãdo-meä feminists, punks
and performance artists have rediscovered the relatively
innocent charms of old school dirty dancing, and, fittingly, New
Orleans has become the epicenter of the Neo-Burlesque movement.
Alison Fensterstock, a local writer, created Tease-O-Rama in
2001, which brought thrill seekers and journalists to New
Orleans to document what would become a national phenomenon.
Fensterstock is an alumna of The SophistiKittens, a more swinginâ
sixties variant of the form. The Shim Shamettes, New Orleansâ
most famous burley-Q traditionalists (they perform classic
routines featuring balloons, feathers and giant oyster shells,
for instance) have been featured in profiles of the retro art
form as recently as The New York Timesâ May 25, 2003 review,
though their home base, the French Quarterâs Shim Sham Club,
recently closed. Whether as part of a nostalgic cultural
cocooning associated with the countryâs reaction to the
dangerous new world of international terrorism, a deconstruction
of traditional gender roles, an effort to preserve a
(previously) dying art form, or another sexy way for kids to
annoy their parents, burlesque÷specifically the Golden Age style
of burlesque as practiced in gaudy Bourbon Street theaters a
generation ago÷clearly has recaptured the public imagination.:
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Backed up
by the retro sounds of the SophistiCats, the SophistiKittens
revive the classic burlesque routines of the mid-twentieth
century (courtesy SophistiCats & SophistiKittens). |
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And burlesque dancers are not
alone: the spirit of Bellocq as filtered through the mythology
of Storyville also imbues the work of New Orleansâ visual
artists. Although Bellocqâs work obviously predates more
contemporary cultural discourse about the politics of voyeurism
(the victimization inherent in artistic objectification, the
pathology of scopophilia and the reinforcement of
phallocentricity brought about by forcing women into object
status), his work foregrounds such issues. Similarly, several
New Orleanian artists use nude imagery to confront these issues
more overtly. Jedd Haasâs mygirlnextdoorcam.com (2000) directly
alludes to such voyeurism in its title and its subject, a
topless young woman looking backwards over her shoulder at some
imagined internet surfer whoâs paid for the privilege of looking
back at her (interestingly enough, Haas is an internet art
entrepreneur, and the brains behind the online Gallery Tungsten,
a site developed for electronic art purchasing). J.B. Harter
turned voyeurism on its ear in his playful homoerotic pinups,
which often featured men as naked, posed and ready for hire as
Bellocqâs women (some of which can be found in his book,
Encounters With a Male Nude, 1997; Harterâs work on a second
collection of his paintings abruptly ended when he was murdered
in March 2002). Perhaps the most disturbing art works mining
this territory, though, belong to the sculptor William Ludwig,
one of New Orleansâ most iconic artists; his bronze statue of
the cityâs most infamous Lucky Dog vendor, Ignatius Reilly,
defiantly stands on the Quarter side of Canal Street, ready for
a photo op with any tourist looking for the authentic
Confederacy of Dunces experience. Even more New Orleanian,
though, are his odd topless female busts. Womenâs heads stare
expressionlessly forward, while their breasts÷either with their
shirts pulled aside or off completely, sometimes adorned with
beads÷are carefully rendered and detailed. The remainders of
their bodies (arms, legs, backs) are nonexistent, as if
irrelevant. The New Orleans Art Review likened Ludwigâs art to
pornographic Penthouse Pets (his peculiar focus on breasts force
ãÎmysteriesâ [to] degenerate into the salacious,ä according to
their critic); whether his sculptures reduce women to fetishized
objects or criticize such gestures remains open.
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Ernest J.
Bellocq, Bellocq Prostitute, Storyville (courtesy John
Stinson Fine Arts). |
Several artists would interpret
the inkblots of Bellocqâs photos as studies in empowerment, as
portraits of women who use their nudity and sexuality to create
their identities. Performance artist Heather Weathersâ work
certainly stems from this aesthetic. Whether creating paintings
out of her menstrual blood, wrapping her nude body in measuring
tape, posing in raw meat bikinis, creating a roomful of ãAss
Printä wallpapers (courtesy of her paint-daubed ass) or
featuring her tattooed naked body in ads urging potential art
collectors to ãGive It Up for the Arts,ä Weathers turns her body
into a site of self-creation (versus an object of someone elseâs
ownership or subjectivity). Less dramatically, but no less
viscerally, Ann Schwab similarly relies on body imagery to
explore identity issues. Her 2002 installation at the
Contemporary Art Center demonstrates her interest in the body
(and, specifically, the processes by which our bodies wound and
heal) through her imagery (nude photographic transparencies
featuring body parts, scars and sutures) and media (tissue
samples, hair, suture threads). Her work, juxtaposing such
natural imagery with digital technologies and assemblages,
prompts audiences to ask how we create our distinct selves from
such common raw materials. Her most ambitious work, Forest
(2001), invites its viewers to navigate between framed,
translucent, life-sized digital self-portraits suspended from
the ceiling (and alternating with more vegetative imagery) and
explore and assemble the individual being depicted by
constructing a whole from the parts (and, metaphorically, seeing
both the forest and the trees).
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George
Dureau, Brian Haynes, 1989, silver gelatin print, 16 by 20
inches
(courtesy Arthur Roger Gallery). |
Photographer and painter George
Dureau also focuses on the body (and its imperfections), though
his most famous work, his nude series of photographs of
physically challenged and disabled men, concentrates on how
bodies deemed ugly by traditional standards can become beautiful
and erotic. Dureauâs subjects÷dwarves, amputees and other
ãimperfectä types÷achieve their powerful erotic charge through
their commanding expressions and dignified bearings, shaping
their unexpectedly beautiful bodies to their personalities
(rather than the other way around). Comparing Dureauâs images to
those of his follower Robert Mapplethorpe illuminates Dureauâs
aesthetic. While Mapplethorpeâs oeuvre tends towards the cool
and distant, Dureauâs is warm and emotionally engaged; the
latterâs photographs stem from a loving and sympathetic lens,
the formerâs images are more like the carnage of an ãassault
with a deadly cameraä (as the title of Mapplethorpeâs biography
has it). Dureauâs emotionalism resonates through his painted
works, too. Although his canvasses primarily retell Classical
histories and myths (and recreate artworks from antiquity), very
contemporary passion and vitality infuse his paintings, evoking
modern standards of beauty and eroticism in pictures like the
otherwise neo-classical Female Poised (1998) and the homoerotically charged
Ganymede÷The Date With Jupiter (1993).
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Julie
Crozat, The Emperor Has No Pants, (courtesy Barristerâs
Gallery) |
While Bellocqâs nudes seem far
too poignant to be construed as humorous, New Orleans often sees
naked people as funny (perhaps as a result of seeing far too
many of them) 2. One of the cityâs most beloved Mardi Gras
parades (and the only one attended by an almost exclusively
local crowd), the Krewe du Vieux, features equal parts political
satire and (papier maché) nudity. Several of the cityâs artists
similarly use nudity comically to deflate stereotypes,
pretension and history. Julie Crozatâs historical painting The
Emperor Has No Pants (2003), part of the ãLouisiana Purchase Dis-Mantledä
show at Barristerâs Gallery last spring, reimagines Napoleon,
one of New Orleansâ most revered heroes, as nude from the waist
down, making him look silly and calling into question his legend
and legacy. In The Hand of Galatea, Crozat employs a similar
strategy, to a different myth of male power, in this case the
story of Pygmalion (and, in particular, Jean-Léon Géromeâs
famous painting of the scene). In Bulfinchâs retelling,
Pygmalion fell in love with his virginal creation after he
spurned the world of real, live women; in Crozatâs much more
sexual (and sexy) imagining, Galateaâs pinkish palm, flush with
new-flowing blood, beckons her creator in a statuesque
come-hither gesture. Crozatâs version implies that Galatea would
tell Pygmalion exactly when and where the rain in Spain was
going to fall.
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George
Schmidt, Ernest Bellocq Photographing a Prostitute, 1989,
oil on linen, 52 by 72 inches (courtesy the artist). The
original painting does not include a red star. |
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Bellocqâs nudes at their most
primal are erotica, and many contemporary New Orleans artists
follow in a tradition that celebrates sexuality. George
Schmidt÷an antiquarian artist whose style derives from French
Academic painting, whose subject matter focuses primarily on
arcane Louisiana history, and who moonlights as the lead
vocalist and banjo player for the New Leviathan Oriental
Fox-Trot Orchestra÷expressly alludes to the erotic joyousness of
Storyville-era entertainment in his energetic, expressionistic
etched recreations of The Oyster Dance (1987) and The Naked
Dance (1982). In his painting Ernest Bellocq Photographing a
Prostitute (1989), Schmidt more realistically depicts the Master
in his seedy setting (ratty improvised backdrops, kids playing
off camera, general disarray). In a wry joke, though, Schmidt
evokes the mystery of the Bellocq myth as well: not only is the
nude model at the paintingâs focal point masked, but the famous
photographer is, too, cloaked in his cameraâs drapes.
Robyn Menzel and Spencer
Livingston, proprietors of the Space Gallery, both address the
erotic in their work; Menzelâs paintings emphasize realistic
detail and smoldering sexuality (as in the skywardly staring,
cigarette-fingering reclining subject of Bed Spread, [2003]),
while Livingstonâs veer towards a more stark naked objectivity
(complete with well-delineated nipples and lush depictions of
pubic and armpit hair). Collectively, their gallery celebrates
sexuality in events like their ãPhoto Club Art Happeningsä
(ãmingle & watch a live photo shoot w/ nude models,ä suggests
their ad), ãFetish Nitesä and shows in which the theme is
ãshameless nudityä (as in the ãOrigin of the Worldä exhibit in
September 2003). And lest the artists (or models) think that
coyness will be tolerated, their brochure warns that ãArt with
fig leaves will not be considered.ä
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Greg
Friedler, from the ãMattressä series (courtesy the artist). |
Bellocqâs legacy lives most
robustly, though, in the work of native New Orleans photographer
Greg Friedler. Friedlerâs most famous work features disarming
portraits of people without clothes, without any concessions to
how people force themselves to dress to compromise their
identity and fit into the culture. For Friedler, nakedness
ãreveals people the way they are. Nakedness is a great
equalizer.ä 3 His ãNaked Cityä books (Naked Los Angeles, 1998;
Naked London, 2000), present volunteers in matter-of-fact,
naturalistic diptychs, the clothed ãpublicä persona on one side,
the naked ãprivateä on the other. The subject matter of his
collection ãMattressä (2002) eerily echoes Bellocqâs own: naked
women, posed on a mattress. The nudity in the ãMattressä
photographs is disarming, the direct stares of the models
empowering and undeniably modern, the psychologies behind the
womenâs eyes as inscrutable as those in Bellocqâs work.
Perceptive gallery owner John Stinson paired the work of Bellocq
and Friedler÷ãTogether for the First Time,ä bragged the
publicity÷to profound effect, the photographs resonating across
a room (and across the eighty-odd years that separates them).
Friedler, who recently returned
to New Orleans from an extended stay in New York, originally had
intended to follow up his ãNaked Cityä books with a Naked New
Orleans sequel, but met resistance. Aside from sex-industry
workers and tattoo artists, Friedler couldnât get enough
ãordinaryä New Orleanians to participate; unsurprisingly, the
public nudity so often on display in the City appears to be more
of a tourist phenomenon than a local one. For Friedler, though,
this obstacle may mean a change of approach rather than a shift
away from his naked muse: his plans for the future include a
possible photo session with the dancers at Big Daddyâs on
Bourbon Street, the strip joint most tourists recognize from the
pair of artificial legs swinging mechanically through the façade
of the building, located about four blocks east of where E.J.
Bellocq hauled his camera from whorehouse to whorehouse in
search of his muse.
NOTES
1.
For an appropriate
soundtrack to this essay, Iâd recommend Ronnie Magri and His New
Orleans Jazz Bandâs CD Shim Sham Revue, The Naked Orchestraâs CD
Brief Repairs on the Gradually Unraveling Spool in the Sense
Continuum and ãOur Call of the Freaksä from The New Leviathan
Oriental Fox-Trot Orchestraâs CD Here Comes the Hot Tamale Man,
for starters.
2.
Living in a tourist town forces artists to
weigh their aesthetics against those of an ever-changing
audience (i.e., the tourists). New Orleans has its
idiosyncrasies as a tourist town÷itâs the visitors to the city
and not the locals, for instance, who are most likely to seek
out, and in turn become, naked entertainment.
3.
Greg Friedler,
Naked New York (W.W. Norton, 1997): 5-6.
The SophistiCats and
SophistiKittens are at Harrahâs Casino in New Orleans November
15. ãBurning Sands: The New Leviathan Oriental Fox-Trot
Orchestra Goes to Warä is out now from Camelback Records. Julie
Crozat has work at Barristerâs Gallery through the spring of
Î04; The Emperor Has No Pants is on view in the Saltline
Biennial at the Mobile Museum of Art until November 30. Robyn
Menzel, from the Space Gallery, will appear on ãWheel of
Fortuneä on December 1.
PHIL OPPENHEIM is a
television executive, recovering academic and lousy ukulele
player. He is working on a study of the Bellocq tradition as
manifested in reputable and disreputable literature, film,
performance and art.
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